4 Bust Exercises for Women who want Perky Breasts

For women who want perkier breasts - or men who want large pecs, there are a variety of ways to work the pectoral muscles of the chest that are responsible for making a woman's breasts look perkier or to make a men's pecs larger.

#1. Push-ups

Try to do 5 sets of 10, 5 sets of 15 or 5 sets of 20 Push-ups every day.

• Kneel on the floor with your feet crossed at the ankles. Press your knees together and place your hands on the floor, slightly ahead of and further apart than your shoulders.
• Ensure that your knees, hips and shoulders are in straight angles.
• Slowly lower your upper body to floor and push back to the original position. If you cannot manage a full push-up, take it halfway down until your strength improves.

#2. Wall Push-ups, Incline Pushups or Decline Pushups

Wall and Incline push-ups are great for people who lack the upper body strength to do a normal push-up. Using wall push-ups and incline push-ups a person can work their way up to eventually doing normal push-ups. And for extra challenge try decline push-ups if you've already mastered normal push-ups.

#3. Chest Presses

This exercise needs weights or dumbbells. Do 5 sets of chest presses several times a week with 10, 15 or 20 repetitions per set.

• Lie on your back on the floor with your feet placed in front of your buttocks, knees bent.
• Lift the weights above you with the backs of your hands facing you. Your arms should be straight. Do not lock your elbows.
• Slowly bend your arms so that your elbows are at 90 degrees.
• Return to the starting position. Give a break of four seconds between repetitions.

#4. Dips

In addition to strengthening your chest muscles, dips also improve your posture when sitting or standing. Three sets of dips with 20 repetitions each done three times per week will work on your chest muscles and triceps.

• Stand with your back facing a chair, table or similar structure and place your feet as far apart as your hips. Place your palms on the back of the chair.
• Keep your back straight and close to the chair.
• Lower yourself until your arms and knees are bent at 90 degrees.
• Push back to the original position until your arms are straight, but not locked.

You can also do Dips with a partner if you have a wall handy.

What is a good bow for an archery beginner?

Q

"What is a good bow for a beginner who is new to archery?"

A

I don't need to add a name to the above quote because I have been asked the same question so many times in the last 5-6 years that I have been teaching archery in Toronto that it doesn't really need a name to go with the quote.

For beginners I recommend they start learning on a recurve bow, but what brand? What model? How many pounds should the the draw weight be? Are they getting a right handed or left handed bow?

#1. Eye Dominance

Lets start with right vs left hand issue, as that is arguably the most important question. Start by taking the Eye Dominance Test to determine whether you are right or left eye dominant. For best results get an archery instructor to help administer the Eye Dominance Test to make sure you are doing the test properly.

Don't worry about whether you are right or left handed, you don't use your hands to aim in archery - you use your eyes.

If you are right eye dominant you need a right handed bow. You will hold the bow in your left hand and pull it with your right hand, back to an anchor spot beneath your right eye.

If you are left eye dominant you need a left handed bow. You will hold the bow in your right hand and pull it with your left hand, back to an anchor spot beneath your left eye.

Thus if you go into a store or order online, you need to make sure the bow you are buying suits your dominant eye. So for example if you go into a store and they only have right handed bows available and all the left handed bows are sold out then you should WAIT. Order a bow that is suitable for you. Don't waste your time or money buying a bow that doesn't suit you.

#2. Draw Weight

You cannot pull a bow that is too powerful for you to pull properly. You need to be able to pull the bow string back to your mouth with your bow arm fully extended and your chest facing 90 degrees away from where you are aiming. If you cannot pull it back to Full Draw and hold it steady then that bow is too powerful for you.

If you pull it back and it feels too easy then the bow is likely too light for you. Ideally you want a bow that is a little bit of a challenge. Not too light and not too heavy of a draw. Finding the right amount can sometimes be tricky, but that is something an archery instructor can help you with. An experienced archery instructor can often just look at a person and will be able to make an educated guess as to an amount that will be a good draw weight for that person.

For most beginners I typically recommend a draw weight between 16 lbs and 30 lbs, depending on the physical stature and strength of the person. Now if you are reading this and thinking "I'm a big guy, I can handle 30 lbs" then you probably should be using 24 or 25 lbs instead. Overconfidence when buying your first bow often leads to people going into a store and the next thing you know you purchased a 50 lb bow you can barely pull (let alone hold steady) and will end up being unusable to you.

#3. Brand and Model Type

There are many companies available out there. For beginners I recommend the following brands and models below. (Prices listed in parentheses are in Canadian Dollars, adjusted for the exchange rate as of April 2015.)

Bear Grizzly ($425), Super Grizzly ($600) or Takedown ($1050)
Jandao ($120)
Martin Jaguar ($200), Sabre ($250) or Panther ($300)
PSE Razorback ($135)
Samick Polaris ($130), Sage ($150) or Red Stag Takedown ($240)

So for example if you are looking to get into archery on a budget, a 20 lb Jandao or 24 lb Jandao might be just what you need. If you want something prettier / more powerful, get a 25 lb or 30 lb Samick Sage. If you want something even prettier get a Samick Red Stag Takedown. If you want something that is higher end in terms of beauty, quality and durability, get a Bear Grizzly or one of its more expensive relatives.

So for example the bow shown on the right here is a Samick Sage, which comes in a minimum 25 lbs - which means that someone seeking to use that bow properly should be strong enough to be able to pull and hold it steady, otherwise they are just wasting their money.

Before buying anything however you should probably get some archery lessons first, just to make sure archery is the right sport for you. Your archery instructor will also be able to make equipment recommendations so that you are getting the right arrows for your bow, a good arrow rest, and everything else you need. eg. If you are buying a recurve bow you will want a Bow Stringer and you will need to learn how to string a bow properly.

If you want to get into archery, but you want to get into it very frugally check out my past post on DIY Archery Equipment on a Frugal Budget.

Booking Archery Lessons in Toronto

Hey Toronto!

I have good news and bad news.

First if you are looking to book archery lessons in Toronto for the current season, you had best book ASAP if you want the plum time slots. Weekends and Weekday Evening time slots are booking up like crazy.

This means if you delay, there will be no weekend or weekday evening time slots left.

In other news there are plenty of weekday time slots in mornings and afternoons, so if you have a flexible work schedule, certain weekdays off, or even unused vacation time why not sign up for archery lessons?

A Very Straight Vertical Line of Arrows

ARCHERY TIP

See the vertical line on the target on the right? That line is so perfectly straight because the archer is making maybe 1 or 2 little mistake that is causing vertical inaccuracy.

How do you fix this?

#1. Make sure your draw length is the same; You need to achieve full draw every time. It helps to have a coach to double check you are using a full draw each time.

#2. Relax your bow hand and bow arm/shoulder. If your hand, arm or shoulder are too tense they can torque in various directions, often creating vertical, horizontal or diagonal lines of arrows. (eg. When fatigued, diagonal lines are quite common.)

#3. You might be Face Walking your anchor spot. Face Walking is an archery term used to describe an inconsistent anchor spot that goes up/down or left/right on your face while shooting, creating lines of arrows on the target which are either vertical or horizontal. To make sure you are not Face Walking it is helpful to have an archery instructor who can watch for the warning signs that you are making mistakes and help you to correct your mistakes.

There are other factors that can also cause lines on the target (eg. horizontal lines caused by windy conditions), but to learn what you are doing wrong and how to correct the problem it is very beneficial to have an archery instructor.

To book archery lessons in Toronto email cardiotrek@gmail.com to begin scheduling your lessons. Before you know it you will be shooting super tight arrow clusters or even splitting your own arrows.

Super Tight Cluster of 3 Arrows

To learn more about Arrow Clusters and Splitting Arrows (Pulling a Robin Hood) see:

Splitting an Arrow down the Middle

Arrow Clustering at Work

Consistency and Arrow Clusters

Archery Lessons Testimonials

If you are looking for archery lessons in Toronto I am currently accepting new students. Here are a few testimonials from some past students.

"Thank Charles for being such a great teacher and answering any questions I had about archery!

I really appreciate you taking the time to teach me how properly shoot. Starting off, I knew absolutely nothing about archery but after even just the first lesson, I was already 1000% more knowledgeable about the sport and even decided to get my own bow very shortly. I’ve already recommended Charles to a bunch of my friends and coworkers of mine because he certainly knows his stuff!"

- Mark H.

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"Charles is an excellent teacher and mentor. He's patient and knowledgeable, which is key in any type of instructor. During my first few lessons, he gave excellent tips to provide a strong foundation and set me on the right path as an archer. He also knows to tailor later lessons specifically to each individual so you can improve quickly. I've had a lot of fun and seen a lot of improvement in my short time taking lessons. For archers at any level, I would highly recommend Charles as an instructor!

Thanks again for all your help last year and I look forward to seeing you at the range!"

- Raymond H.

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"I thoroughly enjoyed my archery lessons with Charles and I have since gone back to him many times for equipment advice. I learned a lot from him during just the first few lessons, but I continually learned new things all the way until my 10th lesson. I will likely come back for more lessons when I get a longbow so I can learn 'the Howard Hill stance' that Charles demonstrated one time.

His knowledge, his patience and his willingness to teach is an asset to anyone who wants to learn archery."

- Jessica A.

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"Thanks again for helping to improve my shot and tune my compound bow. For anyone who is into compound bows I recommend Charles' archery lessons. I drove all the way to Toronto [from Barrie] for his lessons and it was definitely worth it."

- Henry T.

Super Tight Arrow Cluster

Archery Anchor Points

I have made other posts in the past about anchor points, but as demonstrated by the quote "Anchor point, anchor point, anchor point!" from my post "Archery Compliment / Tight Clusters" anchor points are extremely important when it comes to accuracy - and accuracy in archery means tight clusters.

Basically there are many factors that go into shooting an accurate cluster of arrows - but if you cannot pull back to a consistent anchor point, much of your efforts are going to be in vain.

There are other issues of course, things like draw distance / using full draw, making sure you are standing up straight and leaning to one side (no "teapotting" as per the "I'm a little teapot" song) and a host of other issues I teach during my archery lessons here in Toronto.

The image below is a culmination of 8 photos I took with my cellphone between October 2014 and March 2015. The people in the photo had different appearances, in some cases glasses, beards, hats on, different hair styles, etc. But they all had one thing in common - the approximate location of their anchor spot. Some of them were even left-handed shooters, so I just reversed the image before overlapping it.

"Eight Archers, One Anchor Spot" (Version II)

I feel the image demonstrates the importance of having a solid anchor spot (regardless of whether you are using "North Anchor" like a traditional archer or "South Anchor" like an Olympic archer. Maybe sometime in the future I will take more photos of Olympic archers and a photo similar to this one showing South Anchor.

Now you might think, what difference does it make where I pull back to?

Well it doesn't - just so long as you can remember to use the EXACT SAME SPOT each time you shoot. This is why traditional archers use the corner of their mouth as their anchor spot, because it is a handy landmark for remembering where to pull to exactly - in an effort to be as precise as possible.

So what difference would it make if you pulled to different spots on your face each time?

A lot actually. When shooting at a distance of 60 feet I estimate that moving your anchor spot 1 mm can make 1 to 2 inches difference in terms of accuracy, depending on the person and the type of bow they are using. So if your anchor spot is off by just 5 mm but you are doing everything else perfectly your arrow could miss its mark by 5 to 10 inches. At longer distances the degree of accuracy becomes ever more important so you need to have a very consistent anchor spot when aiming at long distance targets.

For archery lessons in Toronto email me to schedule lessons. I will teach you how to shoot accurately and consistently.