3 Ways to Track Calories More Easily

One of the best ways to lose weight is to count calories so you can have a specific number of calories every day (and if you overeat, schedule more time to exercise to burn off any excess calories).

But to do this means a lot of math and some people don't like math. So how can you make it easier for you to do?

#1. Get your kids to do the math

Think of it like extra homework or chores. If you already reward your kids doing their chores / doing homework with an allowance then this will just be another way for your kids to earn $$$. So this is a win for your kids and a win for you.

#2. Calorie Counting App

Get a calorie counting app for your smartphone and start keeping track of everything using the app. Pretty easy, but you have to remember to do it every time you eat so much as an apple or a yogurt.

#3. Meal Plans

Plan your meals and snacks so you know exactly how many calories you are consuming each day based on the menu for the day.

This way you know you are getting 300 calories for breakfast and lunch, 200 calories during snack breaks at 10 AM, 3 PM + 8 PM, and 400 calories for supper. So [300 x 2] + [200 x 3] + 400 = 1600 calories daily.

As long as you just stick to your daily pre-planned meals and snacks, you don't even have to do any math beyond the initial calculations of how much to eat of each thing to make the total amount of calories for each meal. Once you've gone through all that, you've done the math, you just have to follow the plan.

Note - #3 is basically how Weight Watchers Meal Plans, Jenny Craig Meal Plans, and similar brand name meal plans work. They're designed so you just follow the plan and don't have to do any math.

You can find a variety of different types of pre-made meal plans online. Everything from vegan meal plans, paleo diet meal plans, weight gain / muscle gain meal plans (for weightlifters who want to bulk up), etc. Below are some sample meal plans, but basically you can just Google "vegan meal plan" or whatever topic you are looking for and find plenty of examples of meal plans that might suit your needs and then pick one you like.

Weightlifting Accessories - Useful or Useless?

There are lots of accessories out there for weight lifters, but do you actually need them or are they useless?

Here is my List of Weightlifting Accessories, separated into four categories: Useful, Sometimes Useful, Mostly Useless and Utterly Useless.

#1. Weight Lifting Gloves = Useful

Very useful at protecting your hands from blisters. Some people might consider them unnecessary, but if you've ever had blisters on your hands from weight lifting you will agree they are a must have. They are also useful for gripping barbells easier.

The company I use is Atlas, but I also found a pair of bicycle gloves "Copper Canyon" that are practically identical to the Atlas weight lifting gloves.

#2. Dumbbells = Useful

You are weight lifting. You are going to need lots of different dumbbells in different weight sizes. This is an useful must have - unless you are trying to take the frugal exercising approach, in which case you will need to build your own dumbbells out of scrap.

#3. Wrist Wraps = Sometimes Useful

Wrist wraps provide extra support for your wrists, but not everyone needs them.

#4. Lifting Wraps = Mostly Useless

These are designed so you don't have to worry about your grip so much. You attach them to your wrists and then wrap them around the barbell you are lifting, making it easier to maintain your grip. However if you already use weight lifting gloves, then these things are pointless. I toss these in the Mostly Useless pile.

#5. Deadlift Bar Jack = Utterly Useless

Are you deadlifting and feeling pain as you are lifting the weight off the ground? Then you probably should not be lifting that much weight in the first place. A deadlift bar jack holds the barbell slightly off the ground so you don't have to bend over as much (and strain your back). But if you look at the photo on the right you see it only raises it off the ground by 1 or 2 inches, so does it really make difference? No. Not by much. If your back is hurting you that much, then stop lifting so much at once.

#6. Dip Belt = Mostly Useless

Are you planning on holding weights between your legs while doing pull ups or similar exercises like the guy in the photo? Probably not. So this would only be useful if you actually plan on doing this. I was very tempted to put this in the Utterly Useless pile, but it does have 1 use.

#7. Gym Chalk = Useful

Lets pretend for a moment you don't like using gloves and you want more grip. Well gym chalk is the old fashioned solution. Gives you plenty of grip. Also available as 'chalk balls'.

#8. Lifting Belt = Sometimes Useful

Similar to the wrist wraps, lifting belts are designed so you don't throw your back out lifting something you should probably not be lifting in the first place. But sometimes people don't know their limits so it is wise to be wearing one of these if you are going to be lifting anything which will be using your back muscles a lot.

#9. Knee Supports = Sometimes Useful

Same deal as the wrist wraps and the lifting belt. If you are lifting heavy weights with your knees you may want to be wearing knee supports.

#10. Lifting Hooks = Sometimes Useful

If your grip is really that bad, then you should get a set of lifting hooks. They work waaaaaaaaaaaay better than lifting wraps and you are guaranteed not to be dropping whatever you are lifting.

#11. Liquid Grip = Sometimes Useful

Conceptually, these work the same as gym chalk, but honestly I don't see this being a necessity for anyone who is not a full time bodybuilder. If you're just doing weightlifting for exercise, use gym chalk. If you are doing it 4 hours almost every day then okay, get the liquid grip.

#12. Head/Neck Harness = Utterly Useless

Seriously??? Are you going to be lifting things with your head/neck like the guy in the photo below? Unless you are then this is going in the Utterly Useless pile.

Sign Up for Indoor Archery lessons for November 2014 to March 2015

ATTENTION TORONTO ARCHERY FANS!

NOTICE: Not enough people to signed up asking for indoor archery lessons during the 2014/15 Winter, so I decided to pass on that. If you still want to be on the waiting list for an indoor archery range please contact me.





For a limited time you can sign up for indoor archery lessons for November 2014 until March 2015.

How many lessons and how long is each lesson?

10 lessons per person, 90 minutes per lesson.

Cost?

$800 + HST

What else is included?

You also get a 4 month pass to Cardio Trek's indoor archery range, which you can use during range hours using your own equipment.

Or if you prefer you can sign up for 10 lessons + a 1 year indoor archery range membership for $1300 + HST.

What will Cardio Trek's indoor archery range have?

Bathrooms + running water.
Heating in the Winter and air conditioning in the Summer.
Regular daily maintenance of the archery target butts.
No wind to mess with your accuracy.
No rain or snow.
Lane Booking / More privacy for practicing your archery skills.

What is Cardio Trek's indoor archery range hours?

Monday to Thursday - 9:30 AM to 8 PM
Friday - 9:30 AM to 4 PM
Saturday - Closed
Sunday - 9:30 AM to 6 PM

What if we just want to sign up for an annual membership?

An annual membership is $800 + HST.

What about a monthly membership?

$100 per month or $360 for a 4 month "winter membership". Plus HST.

What if I wanted to train with a friend too? What are the rates?

Winter / 2015 prices:

1 month indoor range membership - $100. 
4 month indoor range membership - $360 ($400 value).
6 month indoor range membership - $500 ($600 value). 
12 month indoor range membership - $800 ($1200 value).

1 Student
$60 for 90 minutes;
3 Lessons - $240 (includes 1 month indoor range membership); ($280 value)
5 Lessons - $400 (includes 2 month indoor range membership); ($500 value)
10 Lessons - $800 (includes 5 month indoor range membership). ($1100 value)

2 Students
$80 for 90 minutes;
3 Lessons - $320 (includes 1 month indoor range membership); ($440 value)
5 Lessons - $600 (includes 2 month indoor range membership); ($800 value)
10 Lessons - $1200 (includes 5 month indoor range membership). ($1800 value)

3 Students 
$100 for 90 minutes;
3 Lessons - $400 (includes 1 month indoor range membership); ($600 value)
5 Lessons - $800 (includes 2 month indoor range membership); ($1100 value)
10 Lessons - $1600 (includes 5 month indoor range membership). ($2500 value)

How do I sign up?

First you need to sign up to be on our waiting list. Send your email, phone number and name to cardiotrek@gmail.com and we will put you on the waiting list. Please specify whether you are looking for lessons, an annual membership, a 4 month winter membership, or want to sign up for a one-month membership.

Note - SPACE IS LIMITED. People seeking lessons and annual memberships will be given priority over people wanting a winter membership or a monthly membership.

What if I don't want to sign up for winter archery lessons and want to prebook for Spring / Summer 2015?

Yes, you can do that too. Send your email, phone number and name to cardiotrek@gmail.com and we will put you on the Spring 2015 / Summer 2015 waiting list.

  
JUST A REMINDER: Not enough people to signed up asking for indoor archery lessons during the 2014/15 Winter, so I decided to pass on that. If you still want to be on the waiting list for an indoor archery range please contact me.

Long Distance Archery in Windy Conditions - Experimentation and Tips

Yesterday I conducted an archery experiment.

The situation was the wind was gusting 30 to 40 kmph and I decided I wanted to see just how much the wind would effect arrows shot long distances during such windy conditions.

And to make the experiment doubly interesting, I used a very low poundage bow (only 18 lbs) to conduct the experiment.

What I determined was that I could easily shoot clusters of arrows at 50 yards (150 feet) or 60 yards (180 feet), but when it got to 70 yards (210 feet) I was doing well just to hit the target.

Note - In order to get the arrows to go out that far and hit the target I was aiming above the target. At 50 yards I was aiming approx. 3 feet above the target. At 60 yards it was about 15 feet above the target, and at 70 yards I was aiming about 35 feet above the target.

Normally when I shoot at longer distances like that I would be packing a heavier poundage bow (somewhere in the 30 to 45 lb range) just so I get way more power and accuracy, but that would have defeated the purpose of my experiment - which was to determine how much wind conditions effected arrows shot from a low poundage bow.

So now my goal is to do this again later in the coming month (when wind conditions are forecast to be in the 20 to 25 kmph range) and repeat the experiment.

And on a later date, when wind conditions are almost null, repeat the 3rd stage of the experiment to see how much more accuracy an 18 lb recurve bow gets when there is almost no wind whatsoever to mess with the arrow's trajectory.

So yes, I will need to update this posting later. Possibly with additional tips.

So here are my tips so far...

#1. Bring binoculars so you can see where your arrows hit way out there. Helps to adjust your aim if you know where your arrows hit exactly (as opposed to just guessing based on where you think they hit).

#2. Don't even bother shooting long distances until you can shoot tight clusters at 20 yards and 30 yards. You should not even be at 30 yards until you can competently hit 20 yards with tight clusters.

#3. Remember that you will need to be adjusting your aim upwards exponentially the further out the target gets. In some cases you won't even see the target any more as you may be aiming at trees or clouds above the target.

#4. Don't progress to the next furthest target until you can competently hit clusters on your current target.

#5. Don't go beyond the limits of your bow's range. You can test your bow's range by aiming a shot upwards at a 45 degree angle and watch where it comes down. On an 18 lb recurve bow (using arrows with 125 grain arrowheads) this distance for me is approx. 75-80 yards. That means that even if I wanted to shoot at 90 yards, the arrows wouldn't be able to reach 90 yards. I would need to use a more powerful bow.

#6. Experiment with different poundages of bows to see which one will give you more accuracy. eg. My ideal draw weight is somewhere between 32 and 45 lbs, depending on how tired I am and how well I slept the night before (I find I can shoot significantly better on a day on which I know I am well rested and am feeling up to pulling a higher poundage).

#7. If you have a compound bow front sight and a peep sight this will give you a distinctive advantage when it comes to long distance shooting - but it really takes a lot of the fun out of it.

#8. Form wise do everything as you normally would when shooting at shorter distances. Your form, the quality of your release, the precision of your aim should all remain the same level of quality. (Or better than your average, as you will be under mental pressure to excel beyond your normal mediocrity.)

#9. Don't bother shooting long distances if you are feeling physically unwell or mentally distracted. You need to be having "a good day" before you shoot at longer distances. Shooting while sick or when having a bad day will doubtlessly lead to lots of lost arrows.

#10. Aim for clusters on the target at the beginning, then try to center those clusters during the 2nd or 3rd rounds.

#11. Remember clearly where you are aiming at the target. Remember where every single shot was aimed and where it landed. If possible, label each arrow and fire them in a specific order and then record where each landed. This will give you a clearly picture of which spots you were aiming at and whether it succeeded at hitting near the center - or at forming a cluster if you fired multiple shots at the same location.

#12. Don't use really expensive arrows that you are attached to. I used the cheapest arrows I own ($6.99 arrows from Tent City in North York) and I didn't lose a single one. But just because I kept hitting the target and had no problem finding my arrows doesn't mean you couldn't easily make a mistake and lose yours. So don't risk your high quality arrows unless you are absolutely certain of your ability to hit the target.

Conclusions so far...

Honestly, I could tell during the gusts that the arrow was being effected more by the wind. You could see the arrow wavering as it flew through the air during gusting and it would typically land to the side or fall short of the target if that happened.

Later today I shall repeat the experiment and look for changes. Since wind conditions will be 10 to 20 kmph slower later today I should see a marked increase in arrow clustering.

If I time shots to be fired in-between any gusts of wind at my altitude maybe I can even avoid the averse conditions more - assuming that the arrows while they are flying high in the air and myself are being effected by the same lulls in the wind gusting, despite the altitude distance.

I don't expect to be splitting any arrows during long distance shots, but clustering in the middle is certainly possible given the right conditions. And with practice at adjusting for wind conditions, perhaps even possible with a little luck.

5 Surefire Ways to Lose Weight

Various people are always having difficulty when it comes to losing weight - and keeping it off. Below it 5 surefire ways to shed the pounds, and pay close attention to #5 because it is the key to keeping it off.

#1. Do cardio exercises on a regular basis. Running, swimming, cycling. Even if you have mobility issues such as sore knees it is exceptionally important to at least walk on a regular basis - or in the case of injuries / chronic disability, swimming is very therapeutic.

#2. Track the calories you are eating and drinking, and reduce the total per day to 1400 to 1700 depending on your body size (1700 if you are tall, 1400 if you are petite). Every sip and every bite needs to be kept track of and limit yourself accordingly. Thus if you are of a medium height (5'8" tall for example) aim for 1600 calories per day.

#3. Make a habit of making sure you are getting enough sleep. People often overeat and don't exercise simply because they are exhausted. They use sugary and fatty foods to prop up their energy levels and unused energy ends up being stored as fat. Making sure you get a good night's sleep every night means you have more energy to exercise and you are less likely to overeat.

#4. Eat healthy - even when you don't want to - and aim to eat healthy foods you already love. Remember #2 above, to count calories, but also aim to make the foods you are eating as healthy as possible too. Your goal here is to make sure you are getting enough nutrients, minerals and protein to make your body a well oiled machine. Avoid anything you know is bad for you and aim for fruits and vegetables that you know you love.

#5. Repeat #1, #2, #3, #4 until they simply becomes a permanent lifestyle change. This is how you make permanent changes and keep off the weight. If you just go back to your old habits, the old weight will simply return - sometimes a lot faster than you expect. You might eventually stop doing #2 (counting calories), but exercising, sleeping well and eating healthy need to become permanent lifestyle changes.

Remember - It is okay to fall off the horse once in awhile. Just got right back on the horse and keep riding until you get to your destination. And once you get there, keep riding!